Kyoto

Hotel accommodation is not as expensive as many people think if you stick to what are known as Business Hotels, designed for business people staying for a couple of nights so expect small rooms, lack of hanging space but clean with good facilities. We used a number of them including MyStays, APA and Tokyo Inn and thought they were all good value. Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.venere.com to see what is available although some of these chains say the rates are always best through their official web sites.

We chose to stay in Downtown Kyoto which was an excellent location, MyStays Kyoto Shijo was one of the best business hotels we stayed in about 10 minutes walk along Shijo-dori from Shijo subway station the heart of downtown.

We had some excellent food in Kyoto and places in guide books, sites etc. were generally easier to find than in Tokyo due to the grid system of the roads however a map app on your phone with hotel, restaurants, sites etc. saved is really helpful.

Ippudo, Downtown, Nishikikoji-Dori, this runs parallel to the main street Shijo-Dori to the north and the restaurant is in the second block west of Karasuma-dori the main cross street. It is part of a very well known chain but the ramen noodle bowls are top-notch, there are always queues as it is fairly small so go late afternoon or evening. We tried to find a branch in Tokyo and were defeated by the address so delighted to be able to try this one.

Gogyo Ramen, Downotown,  452 Jumonjicho Yanaginobamba-dori Takoyakushi Sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, in case the address puts you off this is just off Nishikikoji-Dori (see Ippudo above) as you go west along the street it become Nishiki Market turn left at the second block and it is just up that street. You will know by the queue, you put your name on a list and wait for a table. It is very cool and very good although their speciality of Burnt Ramen may not be to everyone’s taste, the wait should not be more than 15 minutes.

Kyoto Katsugyo, Downtown, Ponto-cho, 188 Zaimokucho, Nakagyo-ku, is a branch in Ponto-cho alley of a Kyoto small chain specialising is deep fried beef cutlets, serving some of the best beef you can imagine, at very reasonable prices. We loved the place, the staff were friendly and the prices very reasonable for that area. Think there is also a branch at the station, had we known would have gone again.

In Ponto-cho Alley there is a very small place on the right hand side going north specialising in Okonomiyaki, Japanese cabbage pancakes, with batter, meat, seafood etc. and done on a table top grill. Very cheap, filling and good fun.

Asuhenotobira, Downtown, 307 Uradeyamacho, Nakagyo-ku, this is also in Nishikikoji-Dori, one block north of Shijo-dori but in this case one block to the east of Karasuma-dori. We had passed it on several occasions and it looked lovely and specialised in Shabu-Shabu Japanese hot pot. We decided to try it on our last night and were amazed to learn that the 7 course menu at Y4,000 (around £30) also included unlimited drink for 90 mins. We had amazing meal, lots of small dishes all beautifully presented with the main event the hot-pot of pork being delicious. This was accompanied by some beer, wine and sake and finished with a fruit liqueur. A great experience from start to finish, lovely service and food.

Omen Kodai-ji, Southern Higashiyama, 358 Masuya-cho,  Kodaiji-dōri, Shimokawara higashi-iru, Higashiyama-ku is a branch of Kyoto’s famed Oden noodle chain and is in a re-modelled Japanese building. Lovely setting and service and perfect for lunch between temples and shrines.

Kushinobo, Kyoto Station, this restaurant is in the area called the Cube on the 11^th floor of the west side of the station building. It has a selection of places but we chose this small restaurants specialising in kushikatsu, skewered grilled meat, seafood and vegetables. We were lucky to get two seats at the counter and chose the lunchtime offer of a mixed selection of 8 skewers. The place setting include lots of small dishes for various sauces which were explained by the lovely staff and fellow diners, all Japanese. The skewers are served with rice, miso soup and salad and the meal was incredible value.

Found good bars even more difficult to find in Kyoto, again many are on upper floors of buildings and are often Irish style bars which we try and avoid abroad. We did find what local ex-pats called the cheapest bar in the city, it again is in Nishikikoji-Dori, past Ippudo on the other side of the road before you come to Nishiki Market. It is a very small stand up bar with some tables on the pavement. Brave it, the staff and customers are welcoming, the drink very cheap and they do lots of little dishes of food, the chicken wings are ace. There is a tiny cover charge of Y108 per person, less than £1, you can get a loyalty card saving you money on drinks – what is not to like. Also no cover charge when you pop back for a post dinner drink !

 There are many bars around the canal area that runs parallel to Ponto-cho and they are all sorts from the expensive cover charge ones in Ponto-cho alley itself to basic bars beside the canal, worth exploring.

Drink

Where to start, beer is relatively expensive due to the fact that the tax on beer is among the highest in the world at around 45% but is still very popular and there are well known brands such as Kirin, Sapporo and Asahi and increasingly many craft beers. Wine is becoming more popular and is cheap in supermarkets but quite expensive in most restaurants. Sake is of course the best known drink and ranges from very dry to very sweet, try and arrange a tasting to get an idea of what you enjoy. Also becoming popular is sparkling sake which is very easy to drink and relatively low alcohol. The most popular drinks in the evenings in bars are highballs, usually Suntory whisky with lots of soda and ice in a glass tankard, even nicer with a slice of lemon. Also popular are highballs made with Shochu, Japanese spirit, which is less strong than whisky, again with soda & ice but often flavourings such as plum, citrus or ginger, these are refreshing and cheap.

The mains sites of temples, shrines, etc. are in the two areas called the Southern and Northern Higashiyama. Spend a day in each area as there are so many things to see, below are the places we visited, some out of choice others because we they were close to other sites as the various sites are spread out and in some cases a stiff uphill climb.

The Southern Higashiyma has the greatest concentration of major sites, walk through Maruyama Park past the Yasaka-Jinja shrine then visit Chion-in, the headquarters of the Jodo sect, Japan’s largest Budhist sect. It is currently undergoing some renovation so you cannot see some of the best parts. Shoren-in however is almost a hidden gem missed by people heading to one of the other larger better known temples, it is a beautiful peaceful place well worth visiting.

The Northern Higashiyama also has some memorable sites, we visited Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion which is set in beautiful gardens, after that a stroll along the Philosophers path is a delight with perhaps a detour to Honen-in, a hidden tample, which I found a little spooky but it is a place to escape the crowds.

Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, is in the North West of the city, I was told by a Kyoto resident that I has to visit it and I was not disappointed. Yes it was crowded but the building reflected in the lake is truly stunning.

Ponto-Cho, Downtown, is beautiful lantern lit alley of traditional buildings packed with restaurants and bars, it is wonderfully atmospheric in the evening and a lovely place for an evening stroll, Check out a couple of recommendations for places to eat above.

Nishiki Market, Downtown, Nishikikoji-Dori, is a beautiful covered market which covers several blocks of the street. There is an amazing selection of shops, restaurants etc. and it is a lovely place to stroll through. There are also two major shopping arcades which run north of Shijo-dori close to the market. Shijo-dori is lined with upmarket department stores which are well worth a visit.

Kyoto Station, is a destination in its own right, designed by Japanese architect Hiroshi Haro who also designed the Umeda Sky Building in Osaka. It is simply a stunning space, take the escalator to the 11^th Floor glass corridor. It is packed with shopping and eating opportunities.

Higashi Hongan-ji Temple, is a short walk from Kyoto Station and is a a vast collection of buildings and well worth a visit if you are in the area, I was “templed” out the day we went so probably did not see as much as I should have.