San Sebastian

As usual check the web sites www.booking.com and www.hotels.com however San Sebastian is expensive for accommodation particularly during events like the Film and Jazz Festivals. There is a small group of privately owned pensions all very smart, two in the Old Part and one in Gros called Pension Aida, the group are called Pensiones con Encanto www.pensionesconencanto.com. The Aida is very smart, lovely staff and only ten minutes from the old town. An alternative option is to try apartments from www.friendlyrentals.com , it has some great places for rent in various locations.

San Sebastian has more Michelins per square metre than any city apart from Kyoto in Japan, I was told. You don’t have to eat at the top Michelin star restaurants however to enjoy the amazing culinary joys of the city. Where else would you find men only cooking societies. If you do want a splurge however you should check out the top restaurants and of course book weeks, if not months, in advance. There are however so many places to try and a selection of some of the best we have found is below.

The hundreds of bars have groaning bar tops laden with pinxtos which in some cases are works of art, some people seem to load up in one place, it can be fun going to several and trying the various specialities. Many places also have hot cooked to order pinxtos, well worth trying.

Old Part

Casa Gandarias, Calle 31 de Agosto 25, has a reputation as one of the best bars in town and should be visited, the pinxtos are great. The crowds can be daunting but battle your way in and choose from the great selection.

Ganbara, Calle de San Jeronimo 21, is another famous bar, groaning with a huge choice of pinxtos. In the last couple of visits we have noticed that it can be more expensive than perhaps it should when you compare it with other similar places.

La Cuchara de San Telmo, Calle de 31 Agosto 28, just off the street this was one of the first places to do cooked to order pinxtos and while it is still always busy the standards seem to have dropped. This could be because there are so many other choices or perhaps an off night as it is still highly rated on various web sites.

Bar Sport, C/Fermin Calbeton 10, has been mentioned in a few articles and blogs and we loved it, old school friendly staff and some great pinxtos at very reasonable prices. It became one of our favourites a couple of years ago and remains one after this visit. Great service, excellent food and good atmosphere.

Borda Berri, C/Fermin Calbeton 12, was set up a few years ago by two guys who were involved with starting La Cuchara above. Have not been able to visit but the reports make it top of the list for the next visit.

A Fuego Negro, C de 31 Agosto 31, is another new addition with some very different things on offer, all with quirky names. Friendly service and certainly worth a visit.

Bar La Cepa, C/ de 31 Agosto 9, is a very popular local bar, again with a big variety of pinxtos and also full meals. There are comments about poor service but this has never been an issue on our visits.

Bar Nestor, C/Pescaderia 11, opposite Zeruko is a good local bar which has gained a worldwide reputation for the speciality Chuleton steak for 2 people with peppers & tomatoes. Only a couple of tables and eating places at the bar & window, be prepared to wait.

Munto, C/Fermin Calbeton 17, is another good local bar with a good selection of pinxtos and also a full menu, worth trying.

Ubarrechena, C/Puerto 16, we enjoyed an excellent menu del dia here, while it may not be the cheapest in town and you may have to request this menu the quality of the food was excellent.

Bar Aralar, C/Puerto 10, on our last visit this became our local haunt, very friendly staff, good pinxtos including some hot ones cooked to order. Perhaps they are not the most fancy but sometimes that can be good and they are excellent quality.

Tamboril, C/Pescaderia 2, on the corner of the Plaza de la Constitucion, this is small & smart bar where some very good pinxtos, the speciality is mushrooms.

Casa Vergara, C/Mayor 21, has I think had a revamp since our last visit, very smart stylish, did not get a chance to try the pinxtos but they looked very good.

Cathedral Area

This part of the city is worth exploring, so do some shopping and try some of the very smart bars, mainly full of locals.

San Marcial, C/San Marcial 50 is hard to find in a small shopping arcade, this probably explains the fact that it is full of locals and it is very reasonable priced.

Gros

This area is known for having the some of the best bars in town in which to sample pinxtos, it is lovely to wander around a less frenetic part than the old part. The bars are still busy however with locals out and about.

Gerald’s Bar, C/ Iparragirre 13, was a star of our most recent visit. I had read great reports and we were lucky enough to get seats at the bar. This is more a restaurant and only offers small plates and mains but what we had was excellent. Great service, atmosphere, mellow music on vinyl, and great looking food. This is our number one for a return visit for lunch or dinner.

Hidalgo 56, Paseo Colon 15, does not look very special but its pinxtos are and it is another award winner. Make yourself comfortable at an outside table and enjoy them while watching the world do by. On a return visit we loved the food and the service.

Bodega Donostiarra, C/Pena y Gorri 13, is one of many places in a great street for eating and drinking. It is very popular which with the choice around says a lot, the food and service is always excellent.

Bar El Lobo, C/Pena y Gorri 6, we enjoyed this modern bar, busy with a regular clientele and although we did not try the food would definitely on our next visit.

Bergara, C/General Artexte 8, is one of the original Gros bars with award winning pinxtos and excellent staff. This is definitely one not to be missed as the selection of both hot and cold pinxtos is outstanding.

Urtxori Bi, C/Bermingham 17, is opposite Bergara and was a real find, an old school bar with some great pinxtos and friendly service.

Eguzki Bistro Bar, C/Secundino Esnaola 44, was on the list to try but unfortunately did not get a chance to visit, have read great things so a must for next time.

Casa Senra, C/San Francisco 32, was a chance find on our latest visit and really liked the old school atmosphere and although we didn’t try the food it looked good.

Drink

The local white wine txakoli is a slightly sparkling, very dry and low alcohol and reminds me of Portuguese vino verde, it is not personally to my taste. I prefer to sample some of the other Spanish wines on offer particularly the Rioja wines on offer coming from the southern part of the Basque country. Do not forget to try white Rioja wine as sometimes we forget that they do not only produce amazing red wines but also white.

The beach and the pinxtos are the main things in San Sebastian but there are some lovely churches you can visit and just wandering around the town is great. There is also a funicular which takes you to the top of Monte Igeldo and from there the views are fantastic.

Worth visiting is the sculpture park and museum of Eduardo Chillada who came from the city. A local bus will take you to the grounds which are beautiful to wander around.