Heraklion

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com. We stayed at the Olive Green Hotel, a very cool modern build hotel, handy when there is an earthquake which there was when we stayed, it is in a great location.

Rethymno

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com. Staying in the old part is best for exploring however it is worth bearing in mind the old part is traffic free from 11am to 6 pm if you are using a taxi.

Chania

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com. The old town has some beautiful small boutique hotels and we were delighted with our choice of  the lovely Sette Venti, www.sette-venti.com, beautifully designed and great service.

Restaurants

Heraklion

There is a huge range of places to eat and drink and it can be hard to find a table at the weekend so booking can be a good idea especially with some of the more upmarket places. 99% of places give you free desert and raki after a meal.

O Tempelis, Milatou7, excellent old school taverna with lots of outdoor tables, good service, good quality dishes, and incredible value. They also have the restaurant opposite with a similar menu, see below.

O  Magos, Milatou 6, owned by the same people as O Tempelis, again great old school taverna, very good food, service and house wine excellent, again incredible value.

Koukouvagia, Milatou 13, we ate here twice as the menu featured some twists on tradition dishes and really enjoyed the food, service was mixed but all in all definitely worth a visit.

Pesekesi, Kapitan Heralampi 6-8, this was on my list to try and when it was recommended by a local that decided us and we booked a table. I loved the food and the place itself, it is a stunning conversion of an old building, not the easiest to find, we did have a couple of hiccups with the service. They have a fabulous selection of local wines, reasonable priced and I would definitely return.

Oyzepi, Marinelli 1, there are a number of restaurants on the waterfront and on a windy day this seemed the best choice, food fine, service a bit offhand and there are comments about being overcharged we didn’t find this. On a warmer day would have chosen the one opposite.

Meze Bar, 1866 Street, on this market street there are 2 local Meze bars serving small plates, the one on the right as you walk down from Lion Square is top notch.. The owner produces 7 small plates using what was fresh in the market, it was excellent and he has excellent local wine as well as ouzo, great with the meze, and excellent beer. It is amazing value and the service is so friendly.

Rethymno

Othonas Taverna, Mavrokordatou Alexandrou 27, is one of a row of inviting restaurants but glad we chose here on our first night as the food and service was excellent and we returned for our last night in Rethymno, booking recommended as very popular with both locals & visitors.

Raki Baraki, Arampatzoglou 17, is a cool looking restaurant in one of the narrow main streets and is owned by the same people as the upmarket Avli. We really enjoyed the dishes we shared at lunchtime, they had a twist on traditional recipes.

To Parastratima, Diogeni Moschovit1 12, directly behind the Rimondi fountain, we found this by accident and loved the food and the hospitality, we went for lunch and again for dinner and stopped for a drink on another occasion before they got busy.

Lemonkipis, Ethnikis Antisaseos 100, was recommended and looked lovely and we booked a table but were disappointed at the end of the meal. The food was good but not outstanding but the service was not great and when looking at the wine list of some lovely local wines the manager says I don’t know anything about wines that is shocking, felt at the end it was overpriced for what is was.

Sofra, Epemenidou 6, this was attractively set out in a lovely narrow lane and the service and food were good as was the wine list. It was priced at the higher end of the places we ate in but overall worth the money.

Haris Creperie, Mesolgiou, they seem to have two places in this street, the one nearest the fountain is open, the other is not. Very popular for pancakes & waffles which we didn’t try they also do excellent sandwiches and very reasonably priced drinks and the service was great.

Gelato It – Love Life, Mavrokordatou Alexandrou 1, is a fabulous take-away with a few tables, the cakes & pastries are fantastic as apparently is the ice cream, they also do a small selection of savoury snacks.

Chania

Taman, Zampeliou 49, a hugely popular & stylish taverna in a converted Turkish bathhouse, they also have outdoor tables in the narrow lane which divides the two parts of the restaurant. We checked it out the first night and got our hotel to book it for later in the week. The food was excellent as was the service and we really enjoyed our visit.

Ela, Kondilaki 47, this was our local taverna for breakfast, drinks and dinner on one evening. The inner part is another really interesting use of an old building, but there are lots of outdoor tables. Although it may look like a tourist trap we were impressed with the food when we ate and the service was always very friendly.

Kouzina EPE, Daskalogianni 25, is a modern style taverna that only opens during the day and does a large selection of traditional dishes as daily specials and also other dishes. We really enjoyed the food and the service, it is slightly out of the main old part but there are some other highly rated restaurants nearby.

Enetikon, Zampeliou 57, looked attractive and we tried it for lunch one day and were very impressed with the quality of the food and the service was very good. This is definitely one to try again on any future visit.

Kritamon, Kondilaki 38-40, we booked this as a special dinner to try some good Cretan wine having enjoyed a drink here one evening. We thought the food was excellent and the wine selection as good as we hoped, reasonably priced for the level of food and service.

Amfora, Akti Kountourioti 49, being at the Venetian Harbour we chose carefully as Amfora made a point of saying they did not try and get customers in unlike many others. We thought the food was good and of course the view is wonderful, one of the better restaurants on the waterfront.

Bars & Cafes

Heraklion

Fix Café, Aretousas 2, is on the corner of the lovely square and share the garden part of the square with a couple of other places. Good range of drinks and friendly service. The Olive Green Hotel also has part of the garden as part of its bar terrace also serving food.

Central Park, Arkoleontos 19, just at the side of El Greco Park this very popular café services a great selection of drinks and food, service is excellent and they keep an eye on customers waiting for tables.

There are lots of very cool trendy bars around the old centre, some with fabulous cocktail menus abd there is also a wide selection of old school cafes serving drinks.

Rethymno

Galero Café at the Rimondi Fountain is a great place for a drink and to do some people watching, they also do food but we didn’t try it. Very popular and tables can be hard to get and service varies but a good place to have a break from exploring.

Arokaria Bar, Salaminos 7, is a very cool, hip bar sadly we only visited once but loved the atmosphere and the service.

Bonobo Bar,  Eleftheríou Venizélou 47, this is one of many bars & restaurants along the town beach area and we went for breakfast and for drinks and enjoyed the atmosphere, very popular with locals.

Chania

Galileo Café, Akti Kountourioti 49, was our go-to bar on the waterfront, we went on the first night and were impressed with the drinks, service and prices. We always found the service friendly and good and we had a couple of snacks there which were fine and of course the view is stunning.

There are two or three small bars in Kondilaki Street just before the junction with Zampeliou, one is part of the Hotel Doge, that are worth trying, great for people watching and close to the harbour.

Drink

Ouzo is of course probably the best known Greek drink and while still seen being drunk with meze it has apparently lost popularity presumably as people change their drinking habits and more cocktail type bars open up.

Cocktails are popular both in the cities and on the islands, and many of the island waterfront bars are great for happy hour drinks.

There are some good draught lager type beers such as Mythos & Alpha which have been around for a long time but ESA is one to look out for available as a lager & a pilsner. Also keep an eye out for Mammos and Fix they are usually found as bottled beer. There are increasingly bars focusing on small craft breweries with more ale type beers such as IPA’s.

Lastly wine and in more informal eating places house wine by the litre is both cheap and drinkable with white, rose and red usually available however the white is normally the best option for quality. If you are going to try more upmarket wine then it is worth doing some homework before you go to learn about grape types.

Crete has around 80 wineries, most in the Heraklion Region and there are a couple of local grape varieties to look out for white Vidiano & Plyto and red Liatiko. Other grapes varieties to look out for are Assyrtiko, Moscofilero, Roditis, Athiri and Malagusia, you will also come across well known grape types like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc but why not try traditional Greek ones. Red ones to seek out include Agiorgtiko, Xinomavro and Augoustatis.

 

 

Heraklion

As previously mention the Archaeological Museum and The Palace of Knossos are the heavy weight attractions however you shouldn’t miss out on just wandering and seeing the lovely Morisini Fountain and the Venetian logia. Outside the city the wine country has many wineries that can be visited.

Rethymno

Rethymno is more about wandering around the narrow streets of the old town and less about the Venetian harbour than Chania. The harbour is pretty but not as pretty and more restaurants than cafes and bars. There are a number of sites to visit including the fortress and various small museums. There is also a small town beach close to the harbour and further out there is a long stretch of sandy beach with large resort hotels.

Chania

Chania is beautiful to wander around, the Venetian Harbour, the old shipyards and it also has a good selection of small museums in old buildings that have been converted. It has popular for people intending to explore the Samarian gulf and also has beaches within easy reach of the town. Leather goods are a speciality and one street is called Leather Street packed shops, some with really high end examples of leatherwork.

Kos Town

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com. We stayed at The Hotel Sonia, Irodotou 9, www.hotelsonia.gr  very near the harbour front. This family run simple hotel offers very reasonably priced accommodation and the location is excellent.

Symi

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com. We stayed at Myrtia Apartments, Akti Pavlou, there are three lovely apartments situated just by the waterfront above Vasilis Taverna and run by the lovely Doukissa, who with her father and brother also own the restaurant. The care and attention shown by the family is wonderful and and you feel at home immediately.

Rhodes Town

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com. We stayed at D’Argento Boutique Rooms, the small family run hotel is just minutes from the Marine Gate entrance to the old town. The rooms have been beautifully appointed and Eleni and family are very helpful and welcoming.

Restaurants

Kos

There is a huge choice of restaurants in Kos town, the advice is to eat away from the waterfront and also to be very aware of ordering fish when it is sold by weight and price.

Elia, Apellou Street 27, Old Town, had been top of my list to try and we enjoyed it so much we went three times during our stay. An old school taverna it has a lovely garden terrace, great staff and really good old school food. The value for money is amazing given the quality.

Evdokia, Mummy’s Cooking, Bouboulinas 13, we found this when looking for another restaurant and seeing how busy it was we stayed and luckily managed to get a table. Good fresh cooking and excellent value and friendly service.

Aegli, Eleftherias Square, this is a women’s co-operative and given it’s situation on this main square it is a good choice for a meal, we enjoyed a good lunch and friendly service.

Kapari Meze, Diagoras Square, Old Town, is in a lovely setting and as the name suggest specialises in meze dishes, we had a lovely table on the terrace and enjoyed sharing four lovely dishes including an excellent shrimp saganaki. Lovely friendly service and very reasonably priced.

Symi

Vasilis Taverna, by the Stone Bridge, owned by the family that have the Myrtia Apartment above, we loved the setting, the service and the food, for either lunch or dinner this is recommended.

O Meraklis, Protou Lochou, this very popular taverna was top of our list for the first night on Symi and we were lucky enough to be able to get a table by arriving just after the early rush. The staff are incredibly friendly, the food good and we enjoyed it so much we returned for dinner on a second occasion.

Taverna O Haris, on the harbour front by the taxi stand, had read good things and were not disappointed, the owner/manager is a lovely guy we really enjoyed the food and the rabbit dish was delicious. You are guaranteed a warm welcome and good food.

Pantelis, on the harbour front past O Haris, Pantelis is the upmarket choice and booking is advised. We enjoyed the food and the house white wine was indeed as the waiter said excellent, there are lots of very expensive options on the menu for the yacht owning visitors.

Tholos, is at the end of the boat building harbour just before the small beach, we stopped for lunch and the setting is fabulous, the food was good and a great choice if exploring that area.

Taverna Katsaras, Pedi Beach, take the bus over to Pedi beach relax, and have lunch at Katsaras. We enjoyed it so much we went twice and loved the food and the service. There are mixed reviews but we were impressed and while it is not the cheapest place we thought it worth the money and an idyllic spot.

Rhodes Town

Taman, Leontos 1, New Town, was simply the best restaurant we had eaten in on our travels around the Dodecanese, it is outstanding. There are no reservations but it opens at 1pm until 10.30 pm we went twice the first time just after it opened the second around 4.30 pm arrive later and be prepared to queue although with a glass of wine. Andrea the owner, his daughters and the rest of the team are serving up fabulous food beautifully presented, the seafood & fish dishes were fantastic, it is Greek food with a contemporary twist. Top notch hospitality, excellent wines, an amazing free desert for all diners with a mastika make this a wonderful experience and the value is incredible.

La Varka, Sofokleous 5, Old Town, was recommended by a local and we enjoyed the food, a couple of dishes that were just a bit different from many places and good accompaniments,  and a pleasant setting in a lovely area with some good places for a drink before or after dinner.

Ta Petaladika, Menekleous 8, Old Town, another recommendation and we really enjoyed a meze lunch with an outstanding liver dish, courgette fritters and small squid, washed down with some decent house white wine.

Hermes Grill, Sofokleous 7, Old Town, is a simple grill house with well cooked excellent value dishes run by a very pleasant chap.

Auvergne Café, Great Alexander Square, Old Town, in a lovely location, went for breakfast and were impressed by the quality and staff and returned for lunch and enjoyed the light dishes we had, at the pricey end of the scale and no house wine.

Mango, Dorieos Square, in a lovely location with pleasant staff, the food was good but perhaps didn’t quite live up to expectations.

Bars

Kos

The Waterfront is lined with bars and cafes and they offer a very enjoyable place to sit and watch the harbour and relax. There is also a bar area with loud, rock style bars aimed at a young crowd just back from the waterfront. The main square Eleftherias has some old school café bars which are great for sitting with a drink and people watching.

Kantouni, Apellou 12, Old Town is a cool, cocktail bar and café, the outside sitting is a great place for an early evening drink, there is also a food menu, it becomes a very popular place later in the evening. There are a few cool bars in this area.

Symi

Symi harbour front is lined with café bars where you can relax and watch the arrival of the yachts and ferries. There are also a couple of cool cocktail bars in the street behind the front.

Mediterraneo Café, is on the harbour front and was one of our favourite stopping places, the owner and staff are lovely, the house wine very drinkable and just a lovely place to relax.

Elpida Café, on the clock tower side of the harbour front, is where the locals go at night to drink wine and ouzo and with each drink comes a small plate of meze. A lovely place with delightful staff, just wish we had found it earlier

Rhodes

Raxati Café, Sofokleous 1-3, our favourite bar in Rhodes Old Town, opens at 6pm in the evening and is a great place for a drink before or after dinner or even for dinner with the cold meat & cheese selection and warm varieties of Greek “pies”. The location is lovely with a number of other small bars and restaurants nearby.

Baluse Club, Sofokleous 10, has a comfortable terrace with very comfortable couches, slightly more pricey than some, also serves food although we didn’t try the pizzas looked good.

The Cellar of The Kinights, Hippocrates Square, built into the old city walls this lovely wine shop also has an outdoor space with a few chairs and serves top notch wines by the glass, all served with nuts, crisps or cheese. The owner is very helpful if you are unsure what wines to try.

10GR Wine Bar & Hotel, Polydorou 16, Old Town, this was a find while exploring the old town shopping streets, lovely top class wines and nibbles, very knowledgeable & friendly staff.

There is a small bar owned by Yiannis next to his restaurant Pizanias Sea Star, in the old town and he is also a well known local musician, worth a visit.

Flaws, Iroon Politechniou 20, New Town, owned by the same family as the fabulous Tamam restaurant, this is a very smart bar specialising in cocktails, but also with wines and beer. Fabulous professional top notch service and quality as expected.

GranCaffe, Grigoriou Lampraki 43, New Town,  a very smart upmarket café, bar and restaurant catering in the main for the locals shopping at the nearby high-end boutiques. Service not wonderful but a good place to stop to relax and the food looked good.

Drink

Ouzo is of course probably the best known Greek drink and while still seen being drunk with meze it has apparently lost popularity presumably as people change their drinking habits and more cocktail type bars open up.

Cocktails are popular both in the cities and on the islands, and many of the island waterfront bars are great for happy hour drinks.

Lager type beers such as Mythos are very commonly drunk and there is also Alpha and Fix, the latter excellent quality but usually only available in bottles, but there are increasingly bars focusing on small craft breweries with more ale type beers such as IPA’s.

Lastly wine and in more informal eating places house wine by the litre is both cheap and drinkable with white, rose and red usually available however the white is normally the best option for quality. If you are going to try more upmarket wine then it is worth doing some homework before you go to learn about grape types. Greek wines are gaining more and more admirers so check out some of the wine bars that have opened in recent years and the quality now is excellent.

White grapes varieties to look out for are Assyrtiko, Moscofilero, Roditis, Athiri and Malagusia, you will also come across well known grape types like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc but why not try traditional Greek ones. Red ones to seek out include Agiorgtiko, Xinomavro and Augoustatis.

Kos

We were based in Kos Town and meant to explore some of the many beaches on the Island which can be done easily by bus but we were enjoying chilling out in the Old Town and coming across the many ancient ruins. There are many day trips to Turkey and we went to Bodrum, good value and less than an hour by boat.

Symi

The joy of Symi is simply walking round the harbour and looking at the beautiful town while watching the departing and arriving yachts. There is an hourly bus service to Pedi beach which also stops at the high part of the town known as the village which otherwise is up 500 steps. There are also taxi boats to various beaches and trip to Panormitis monastery.

Rhodes

There is so much to see in the old town, the Street of the Knights and the Grand Palace and a number of fine museums of antiquities and arts. The moat of the city walls is very well landscaped and can be explored. It is only a short walk to the new town and the harbour and there are many excursions available.

Skiathos

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.venere.com. We stayed at the Design Hotel Architectonika www.hotelarchitectonika.gr a stylish, modern hotel in a great location near the waterfront but very quiet.

Skopelos

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.venere.com. We stayed at Aktaion, this is on the waterfront and has modern rooms with balconies and is very reasonably priced.

The owners of Finikas restaurant, Lambros annd Mando, own two holiday apartments in Skopelos Village, they look lovely and they have a web site www.finikas-apartments.com .

Restaurants

Skiathos

There is a huge choice in restaurants in Skiathos town and we enjoyed some excellent meals.

Marmita, Evangelistrias 30, had been highly rated on various sites and in articles and on our first night we were lucky enough to get a table without booking. The food was excellent, the service lovely and we were very impressed. Having tried a couple of other places we booked for our last night and again had a top notch meal. The prices are very reasonable for a place of that quality.

Ergon, Papadiamenti 24, is on the main street and is a restaurant, café and food shop. There are also branches in Athens and Thessaloniki. They offer a two course menu with a glass of wine as well as an a la carte menu at dinner and we enjoyed the food and the service.

Kabourelias, Old Port, I had read that this was an old school taverna and at lunchtime visitors were definitely in the minority, it was packed with locals. We had an good lunch there and enjoyed watching the activity in the port and people watching.

Skopelos

Molos, Old Port, this was very busy so we decided to try this on our first evening and had a good meal and there was traditional live music, we could see why it was so popular.

Nostos, Waterfront next to En Plo was a good find for lunch on a couple of occasions, they have a large menu of traditional food, well cooked and reasonably priced.

Finikas may be difficult to find as it moved location some time ago. It is at the top of the street running up from the waterfront between En Plo and Aktaion. Husband Lambros and his wife Mando who is front of house  own the restaurant  and are lovely. The food is simple but well cooked and incredible value, it is very popular so try and book. They own two lovely holiday apartments listed above under hotels.

Pervoli, Kanari, near Souvlaki Square, is a beautiful place. They have a huge garden where they grow their vegetables and herbs and the outdoor space is lovely. Top notch service and great food this was a great choice.

Olivo at the Old Oil Factory, we booked this in advance having read reports but were disappointed in the food and the service compared with other places we visited.

Michaelis’s Pie Shop, this is a must to try, ask for directions then go and try his cheese pies, or pop in early evening for a drink.

Agnati, Glossa, is apparently the best restaurant on the island. Glossa, is the second largest town on the island and Agnati is a beautiful restaurant with a stunning terrace overlooking the port of Loutraki. The menu looked amazing and I really regret we didn’t eat there.

Bars

Skiathos

The Waterfront is lined with bars, cafes and restaurants. The bars opposite the old port are perfect for a pre dinner drink and all do great value happy hours usually between 6pm & 8pm, we chose by popularity and seating and favoured the Old Port bar!

Porto Fino, on the new port waterfront the Paralia, was our other favourite bar in the town, a great location to watch the ferries arriving and also the planes approaching.

Skopelos

There are a number of cool bars in Skopelos town, not all easy to find, we visited Screwdriver, Blue Bar and Hidden Door. Hidden door had some great wines but was quiet when we visited, Blue Bar was busy but had some odd music choices.

The coolest bar without doubt was Mercurios which has a stunning terrace overlooking the port.

The waterfront bars were livelier and we enjoyed En Plo, during the day and in the evening.

Drink

Ouzo is of course probably the best known Greek drink and while still seen being drunk with meze it has apparently lost popularity presumably as people change their drinking habits and more cocktail type bars open up.

Cocktails are popular both in the cities and on the islands, and many of the island waterfront bars are great for happy hour drinks.

Lager type beer such as Mythos is very commonly drunk but there is increasingly bars focusing on small craft breweries with more ale type beers such as IPA’s.

Lastly wine, and in more informal eating places house wine by the litre is both cheap and drinkable, white, rose and red are usually available. If you are going to try more upmarket wine then it is worth doing some homework before you go to learn about grape types. Greek wines are gaining more and more admirers so check out some of the wine bars that have opened in recent years.

Skiathos

We were only on Skiathos for three days and after exploring the town we made a point of visiting some of the beaches. We used the bus that runs every twenty minutes and stops at 26 numbered beaches, some easily accessible some not. We went to the last beach Koukounaries, considered the most unspoilt beach in the Mediterranean. It is stunning and has a number of small beach bars and loungers & umbrellas for hire.

On the way back we stopped at beach 16 Agios Paraskevis, another lovely beach, smaller than No 26 and there are a number of tavernas on the main road. We went to the one on the beach side of the road, Kohyli and the food was really good.

Skopelos

There is a regular bus service from Skopelos town to Glossa, the island’s second town. The scenery is fabulous and you should visit Agnanti restaurant preferable for a meal but of not then for a wine on the terrace. The port of Loutraki is down a 3km path and there are a couple of places to eat, we tried Fliski Taverna. The food was fine, the setting is the thing. You can catch the bus back from the port.

Alonissos Island is only 30 minutes away from Skopelos and is perfect for a day out. It is famous for it’s National Marine Park which you can also visit from Skiathos and Skopelos.  We explored the small town and had a really excellent meal at Ostria at the port, the cooking was top notch.

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.venere.com. We stayed at Colors Central Ladadika, www,colorscentral.gr a modern stylish hotel in a great location. The company have another two hotels in central locations and I would recommend checking them out.

Many new boutique hotels have opened since our first visit six years ago and on our recent visit we stayed at 39 Egnatia, a newly opened very smart hotel in a great location.

 

Restaurants

You will be spoilt for choice of eating places in Thessaloniki, the city is packed with options to suit all budgets and the quality we found to be of a high standard in all the places we tried. This is a foodie city where Athenian visit to sample the delights of the culinary scene.

Omikron, Oplopiou 3, Ladadika, is just next door to Colors Central and we went on our first evening and had an excellent meal of see bass, sea bream, salad and potatoes with some decent house wine at a very reasonable price.We returned twice on our recent visit and again the quality of food and service was top notch.

Full Tou Meze, Katouni 3, Ladadika, seems to be on the must try list of every list and we went on our last night, it was still very busy even at 10.00pm. The food was really good, the house wine just slightly better than most, and the value for money was exceptional. This visit we went three times the range of meze dishes made choosing four of five to share very hard, the service was good and the managers oversaw things well and incredible value for money.

Ta Tria Gourounakia,  Kapodistria 7, The Three Little Pigs, is just off Ionos Dragoumi, on the edge of Valaoritou night life area. The actual pedestrian area has a number of other options for eating and drinking. The food was very good, and we enjoyed the look and feel of the whole place. It was excellent value for money. We returned and again enjoyed good cooking and service but the lack of house wine does mean this is at the higher end of Thessaloniki eating,

Rouga, Karipi 28, this is No. 1 on a certain web site and we didn’t choose it for that reason but because when we checked out the area it looked inviting, lots of locals, the food looked good and there was good live music. We booked for the next night and were delighted with all the dishes we tried, it was old school Greek food with lovely service.  Just as good as six years ago, we went twice for dinner and as before enjoyed the atmosphere and the food.

Akratos Oinos, Katouni 11, in a street packed with restaurants in Ladadika this stood out as always being very busy, we went three times once for lunch and twice for dinner and loved the food and service, some excellent takes on traditional dishes on the menu. A great find on our recent visit.

Mezen Salonika, Rogkoti 3, close to Ladadika, I found this on the web and was keen to try this very modern place with such great reports. We loved the place and the food, it does have a young vibe but we were well looked after. They specialise in seafood meze served with tsiporou ,like ouzo, from Volos. We started with some of these and then had two other dishes and were very impressed.

Agora Ouzerie, Kapodistria, we found this on a Saturday lunchtime and it was very busy with large groups of locals, the dishes were decent but did not quite hit the delights of other places on this trip.

Modigliani, Kidoniatou 12, Kapani market, we only stopped for a drink while visiting the market but loved the look of the menu and had meant to return unfortunately we didn’t manage another visit but would definitely try next time.

Cafes & Bars

Mojo, Plateia Aristotelous, at any bar café in this famous square you expect to pay slightly more but here this is made up for with complimentary small cakes with coffee, snacks with beers and wines and complimentary bottled water. Great for a break from sightseeing.

Bespoke, Leof Nikis 1, on the waterfront this small bar does coffees, beer cocktails and is a great stopping off place while exploring the city.

Chilai Bar and Restaurant, Ag Mina 4, is a modern fairly new place good to stop for drinks, it is very popular as are most places in this area including Shelter opposite which was good for breakfast or a drink.

Arrogant Bar, Ionos Dragoumi, a good place for a pre dinner wine in a street packed with places to eat.

The Dubliner, Katouni 16, I am not sure that I have ever recommended an Irish bar on and city page but this was a great place to stop for a wine or beer outside or while watching sport, good service and good facilities.

Valoritou is the “alternative” nightlife area, nothing starts till after 9pm except Gambrinus a very popular beer bar.  Later you cannot get down the streets for the crowds outside a variety of types of bars. Do go for a wander and see if any are your style.

Ladadika is another great area for bars and cafes and there is a wide selection of types of places, beer bars, cocktail bars, and cafes. Less frenetic than Valoritou unless you happen to be there for the three day beer festival in June when it is seriously busy.

Drink

Ouzo is of course probably the best known Greek drink and while still seen being drunk with meze it has apparently lost popularity presumably as people change their drinking habits and more cocktail type bars open up.

Also look for Tsiporou, similar to Ouzo but stronger and sometimes given as a complimentary drinks in restaurants and the main drink in some area of the country.

Cocktails are popular both in the cities and on the islands, and many of the island waterfront bars are great for happy hour drinks.

Lager type beer such as Mythos is very commonly drunk but there is increasingly bars focusing on small craft breweries with more ale type beers such as IPA’s.

Lastly wine, and in more informal eating places house wine by the litre is both cheap and drinkable, white, rose and red are usually available. If you are going to try more upmarket wine then it is worth doing some homework before you go to learn about grape types. Greek wines are gaining more and more admirers so check out some of the wine bars that have opened in recent years.

 

Ano Poli, the upper town is definitely worth a visit, take the Blue tourist bus up and walk down, or it can be reached by local bus. There are many sites to see, the castle, walls and also the original old houses.

The central area has three sites well worth a visit all connected to the 4^th century emperor Galerius, there is the rotunda, the arch and the remains of his palace.

Thessalonoki also has a number of very good galleries and museums including two at the port focusing on cinema and photography.

As usual check the web sites www.booking.com and www.hotels.com  and look at information on line and in guide books. It is important to know where the ferry port is on the island and how easy it is to travel around the islands before settling on where to stay. Also be aware that most towns are hilly with steps and carrying baggage can make this hard work.

Naxos

We stayed on our first visit at the Chateau Zevgoli, it is up the hill slightly above the old town and is a gem. The rooms are lovely, splash out and get the suite on the top floor with a terrace next door and brilliant views. The owner also has two other places the Hotel Apollon nearer the port and Castro Apartment further up the hill.

On a recent visit we stayed at Anassa Studios, just behind the waterfront these have been very well designed and managed. We stayed there again on our most recent visit and enjoy the style and the location.

Syros

We chose the Hermes Hotel at the far end of the waterfront for our most recent visit, it is a large hotel with well appointed rooms and in a good location. On our previous visit we stayed at the Hotel Aegli.We returnedto the Hermes for our most recent visit and again enjoyed our stay.

Tinos

Check out the usual web sites or guide books, we stayed at the Poseidonio Hotel on the waterfront, it was in a great location and the staff were helpful .

Paros

For our first stay in Paros we stayed at the Oasis Hotel which is just be the port, the rooms re simple but the location is excellent.

Mykonos

The Zorzis Hotel, 30 Kalogera Street, is a lovely, locally owned hotel in a traditional building in the heart of the old town but very peaceful. Breakfast served in the garden is excellent and the owners had recommendations for eating at all price levels.

 

Naxos

Restaurants

Lucullus, Old Market Street, we visited om out first stay on Naxos sadly it was closed next time we visited nut on this recent visit it was open and as good as before. The rabbit is just wonderful as are the lamb chops in an olives and thyme sauce. The owner, cook and waiting staff are lovely.

Metaxi Mas, is at the end of Old Market Street past Lucullus  & Vassilis and has become a favourite, on this visit we went three times.  We really enjoyed the traditional cooking and the really great service, it is a real gem. Booking is advised for dinner as even though it has expnded getting an outside table can mean a wait.

Taverna Vassilis, Old Market Street, we visited during an earlier stay and being the end of the season it was quiet, the food and service were good but it is more expensive than some of the other options nearby.

Meze2, Paralia, the waterfront, is excellent, the fish and seafood top notch, the word is the local fishermen come here to eat. Very reasonably priced and again very pleasant owner and staff, it is very popular particularly at night.On a return visit it was still popular but I was a bit disappointed with the dishes.

Boulamatsis, is just behind the front almost directly above Cafe Lotto, it is modern looking but with old school Greek cooking. We went twice and loved the food, amazing value and there are a couple of tables on the small terrace overlooking the port. We returned twice on this most recent visit and it was again excellent, incredible value for the quality and lovely family story about the owners.

Gemma, Naxian Bistro, just off the front close to the Xenia & Coronis hotels, this was a real find, a lovely space with excellent wines, great service and although we didn’t eat there the food look excellent, A good selection of some excellent Greek wines, do give it a try.

Labyrinth, Old Town, follow the Old Market Street and look out for the signs, this is very smart and has a lovely garden but the food was not quite as good as the hype, however it was still an enjoyable experience, booking definitely recommended.

There are loads of places to eat in the town along the waterfront and in the old town streets behind, you would never go hungry here.

Bars

Naxos Café, opposite Labyrinth above is a great place for an evening drink, very pleasant owner, great music and a gem for people watching in the narrow street. Still as good as on our first visit to the island.

Notos Wine Bar, is in the maze of old street and we found it by chance while exploring, it is a lovely bar with a garden area & terrace and some very good wines.

The Paralia is full of cafes and bars with lovely sofas where you can sit and watch the people and the boats, along at the end furthest from the port there are a couple of more trendy young bars doing cocktails and with a louder volume of music.

The bars we liked this visit on the Paralia were Cafe Lotto and Prime Cafe Bar and at the other end of the waterfont Cream & Coffee. Kitron Cafe is very popular but they try to press you into tasting their liqueurs when you only want to stop for a beer. 520 Cocktail Bar & Restaurant has a lovely terrace overlooking the port and drinks are reasonably priced.

Syros

Restaurants

Cantina Analogue, Parou, Ermoupoli, was a great find, the modern take on traditional Greek food was so very good, we went twice during a recent visit and loved the food and atmosphere, highly recommended. Popped in this time for a drink and still good but lack of shade at lunchtime outside is a shame.

Seariani Fish & More, Peloponnisou, Ermoupoli, was another place we chanced upon and were so impressed with the look & friendly staff that we booked for dinner. The food was excellent and the service very friendly although rather slow, but definitely worth it for an unhurried meal.

Arme, Akti Petrou Ralli, Ermopouli, is one of a number of restaurants on the water front and we enjoyed an lovely lunch with excellent service, good food and very reasonable prices and of course a great setting.

Stin Ithaki Tou Ai, Kyparissou Stefani Klonos 1, one of a number of places in this street, I had read good reports so tried it on our most recent visit and were delighted with the food and service, in fact we went three times in five days for dinner, amazing value.

Taverna To Petrino, Kyparissou Stefani Klonos 9, another one in the same street enjoyed it but not as much as Stin Ithaki above.

Ta Giannena, Kanari Square, at the end of the row of bars and restaurants at the port opposite Hotel Hermes this grill restaurant is popular with locals and is great value, service variable but definitely worth visiting.

Bars

The waterfront is lined with bars and choosing one can sometimes be a bit of pot luck but we struck lucky with our choices which became firm favourites.

Chalandriani, Akti Petrou Ralli 16, our favourite bar on this most recent visit, Great staff and owner and excellent selection of drinks always served with complimentary snacks.

Plaza,  Akti Petrou Ralli, another recommended bar in the same port facing street as above.

Okio, Akti Petrou Ralli 18, another good choice, pleasant staff made it a good stop for a pre or post dinner drink. A good choice of drinks, complimentary snacks and of course a great location.

Cocoon, further along the waterfront towards the centre of town was a second favourite and was a regular stop for an iced coffee in the morning.

Belle Epoque Plateia Miaoyli, is one of a number of cafes in the main square but was without a doubt our favourite, excellent friendly service, good range of drinks, complimentary snacks and happy hour cocktails while people watching.

Porte, Cocktail Gallery, Androu 3, is a very cool bar with lovely outdoor seating, it offers not just cocktails but service can be very slow.

Tinos

Restaurants

To Koutouki Tis Elenis, Gagou 5, this gem of a restaurant had great reports and we were not disappointed. We went three times during our stay, the food is excellent, the service lovely and the house wine and prices amazing value.

They have a cafe/bar down a few steps from the restaurant which does a large variety of drinks, always served with free generous snacks and also does meze, again lovely staff and incredible value, very popular with a local crowd.

Tinos Ise, Evaggelistrias 21, we found on our first afternoon when we stopped for a drinks at this nice looking small grill place in the main street. The family who run it are lovely and we ate there, excellent gyros, and stopped for a drink on a couple of occasions.

Marina, Panormos Port, when we took the bus over to Panormos we were immediately taken with the small port town and its idyllic setting. Having wandered around the front and had a beer at a lovely waterside cafe we looked for somewhere for lunch and spotted Marina and the fact that it was already attracting customers made us choose it. We were delighted great service and food and excellent value for money.

Bars

Our favourite bar was the one attached to and just below restaurant To Koutouki Tis Elenis however there are plenty to choose from.

Piazza, is one of many on the harbour front  just past the old port and was our choice because of the service most of these also do food,

There is a lovely area of lanes with col cafes, bars and restaurants just below Paxamadi street and these lead to another area of restaurants heading towards the new port.

Paros

Restaurants

Taverna Mouragio, Waterfront, Parikia, we found this while looking for another restaurant and were lucky enough to get a table on the waterfront terrace. The dishes we had were excellent as was the house wine and friendly service made it a great choice.

Taverna Mira, Waterfront, Parikia, we booked this for dinner but due to the weather had to eat indoors not on the terrace. It is very popular and has a wide menu, I preferred the ambience of Mouragio but would return.

Apostolis Ouzeri, Livadia Beach, Parikia,  we found this by chance on our walk to the beach and stopped for a drink and a couple of small dishes, wish we had been able to return as the food and friendly service were great.

Zorbas, just at port by Oasis Hotel, Parikia was a great place for a simple gyros lunch.

Oasis Cafe, Port, below the Oasis Hotel, Parikia, great for breakfast or lunch or just for a drink. The staff were friendly and the location at the port great for seeing the activity of island life.

Bars

Pinoklis Kafepotopoleio, Waterfront, Parikia, was a firm favourite for an evening drink. Excellent beer and wine choice, generous complimentary snacks and friendly service.

Rodi Cafe, Waterfront, Parikia, nearer the port this was a lovely place for a drink while watching the sunset, a lovely owner and a very local feel it was another favourite.

Pirate Bar, Market Street, Parikia, this is the original cool bar in the old town and pleasant to sit outside and watch the world go by and admire the cool boutiques.

Mykonos

Restaurants

Koursaros, Meletopolou, is without a doubt the best fish restaurant in the town, the design, service and food is all top notch as is the clientele but it comes at a price and it is very expensive, particularly if you have the whole fish sold by the kilo.

Nisa, 10 Kalogera Street, is excellent, either get a table on the terrace, best for people watching, or the garden. The food is excellent but the prices put it in the expensive category.

To Maereio, 16 Kalogera Street, is very highly rated and is reasonably priced but it does not take bookings therefore we never managed to try it out but it was always packed and queues of people waiting.

Kalita, 31 Kalogera Street is attached to the Fresh Hotel but run separately, has a good reputation and the menu looks good and reasonably priced but very popular so did not get a chance to try it, definitely book in advance.

Kadena, on the harbour is a smart modern bar and café with good food on our visit, the seafood linguine was excellent and reasonably priced.

Bars

Bubbles Bar Gallery, Agios Vlassis, what more can you ask for, a lovely bar doing great cocktails, wines etc. that is also a chocolate shop and has brilliant music and is run be a lovely lady called Despina who is an excellent host. Cushions on the church steps for the younger ones, more comfortable seats for the older ones, it is a gem !

Katerina’s is a bar restaurant in Little Venice and is a great waterside terrace for pre dinner drinks with and a restaurant downstairs which has a good reputation. All the bars in this area get a bit younger and rowdier later at night !

Toro Loco; is a wine bar that specialises in Spanish wines in one of the streets running of the waterfront. It is very nice but at night very noisy mainly from the bar opposite.

White Bar, Matogianni Street, which is in one of the three main streets, is great to sit outside and watch the people, it also does food.

There a loads of bars and cafes on the harbour front, some very local and cheap some upmarket and very expensive you can take your choice.

Drink

Ouzo is of course probably the best known Greek drink and while still seen being drunk with meze it has apparently lost popularity presumably as people change their drinking habits and more cocktail type bars open up.

Cocktails are popular both in the cities and on the islands, and many of the island waterfront bars are great for happy hour drinks.

Lager type beer such as Mythos and Alpha is very commonly drunk but look out for other excellent ones such as Mammos, Fix and Eza.  There is also a push on small craft breweries with more ale type beers such as IPA’s and these craft beers are available in bars and also restaurants.

Lastly wine, and in more informal eating places house wine by the litre is both cheap and drinkable, white, rose and red are usually available. If you are going to try more upmarket wine then it is worth doing some homework before you go to learn about grape types. Greek wines are gaining more and more admirers so check out some of the wine bars that have opened in recent years.

 

Naxos

Wandering through the town, going up to the top of the hill where there is a museum and some fascinating buildings, the whole town is just lovely and the beach is a nice change with loads of places to eat.

The bus office is just by the port and they have a timetable that shows the services to some lovely beaches around the island and inland to the mountain villages of Filoti, Halki and the lovely Apiranthos.

Tinos

Tinos town surprised me with the variety of places to eat and drink, for culture the church which is the reason the pilgrims visit is a highlight. The island itself has many villages to visit and it is a beautiful island, we loved Panormos on the other side of the island.

Syros

Ermopouli is an impressive town and a delight to wander round, on the hill above is Ano Syros a steep climb or a quick bus trip. You can also visit by bus the seaside town of Galissas and the beach at Finikas.

Paros

Paros has certainly become more popular over the last few years, on our first visit we stopped on route between islands at the port town of Parikia. This time we stayed in Parikia the main town for a few days, there is a lovely old town to explore with chic boutiques and a good range of restaurants and bars. The town of Naoussa to the north is gaining a reputation as a trendy and smart destination.

Mykonos

Wandering the streets, getting lost, everyone does, see the windmills, photograph the pelican. There is also a small town beach but buses go to the various other main beaches on the island.

Check out the usual booking sites such as www.booking.com or www.hotels.com.  For our first visits we stayed at the Hotel Attalos Athinas Street nr Monistariki Metro Station, www.attaloshotel.com. The rooms are simple with all facilities required,  ask for a balcony room, ideally the corner ones for a fabulous view of the Acropolis. There is an excellent roof top bar, a great place for an evening drink, the staff are helpful, and the location of Psiri is great.

On our last visit we decided to book an apartment in Psiri and found a lovely one through www.booking.com called Athens Suites, the block is lovely, the apartments stylish and in the heart of Psiri. There is a web site and you can book direct  www.athens-suites.gr and also see the ten apartments available. They will definitely be our place stay on the next visit.

Atlantikos, Avliton 7, Psirri was the find our our a recent visit. I had read about this fish & seafood taverna in an article and on our first visit was surprised to find a modern restaurant with outside seating in a small lane. The fish was outstanding and the prices incredibly reasonable, the staff were friendly and we were very impressed. We returned on our last night after travelling and were lucky to get a table, the prawn starter and the fish main were great, as was the house wine and the bill. They have expanded the premises and on our last visit we saw how incredibly popular it is with queues for tables.On our most recent visit we managed to get a table at lunchtime and it is still excellent quality and amazing value for money.

Mavros Gatos, Navarchou Apostoli 5, Psirri, this was a great find on our most recent visit. We went for dinner twice as we were so impressed with the quality of the food and the service and loved the atmosphere. Definitely one for our next visit. We returned on our most recent visit and it was a good as ever excellent food and service, lovely staff and owner Gakis. A must on our most recent visit and still as great as ever all the dishes we had were top notch and the house wine is excellent.

Taverna Tou Psirri, Eschilou 12, Psirri, has been there for years and on this visit arriving late we tried it on our first night, simple food, reasonably priced and decent service.

Oineas, Aisopou 9, Psirri, we booked this in advance after reading about it and seeing how busy it was one evening. The setting is lovely and the staff welcoming, the two mains were both good but I found the octopus starter rather tough. Returned recently and enjoyed the food and the good service.

Lithos, Aisopou 17, Psirri, another old favourite in this area and it is always popular with a mix of locals and visitors, good setting and food and service both good.

Avli, Agiou Dimitriou 12,Psirri,  was another new find, we were heading to an old favourite on a Sunday lunchtime but it was shut and spied this down a tiny lane. This was an old school locals haunt and we really enjoyed the food and the atmosphere.

Nikitas, Agion Anargyron 88, Psirri, this was recommended by a local during our most recent visit and we went three times in 5 days, which should say it all. Excellent, traditional cooking, lovely service and incredible value. In an area with some not so great places this is now going to be a  fixture for future visits. Excellent as ever when we visited on our most recent visit. Lovely to return this time lovely people, good food and amazing value.

Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani, Sokrates 1 & Evripidou 52, Monistariki,  just of Athinas Street, we spotted this at the start of this visit and returned at the end to have another look. It looks like a grocers & delicatessen with a few tables which is exactly what it is.  We were enticed in by some lovely pastrami & cheese given to us by one of the great staff. As we were going somewhere later we only tried a couple of small dishes but they were both excellent, the staff lovely & the free dessert of yoghurt with sweet carrot was super. A really great find and definitely a must on a return visit. We went twice on our most recent visit and as ever top notch. They have a really good selection of craft beers. Still as great as ever we had an excellent meal, booking recommended.Visited again this time and still a must on any stay in Athens.

En Lordani, Agion Anargiron 3, Psirri, have seen this on previous visits but tried it for the first time recently and were impressed with the selection of traditional dishes, definitely one to visit again. We visited this time and enjoyed the food, they seemed to be understaffed but still one to return to.

Bandiera, Taki 19, Psirri, went late one evening for dinner, food good and would try again as it gets some great reviews, as the last customers probably not the best time to have visited.

Kalimeres Bistro, Taki 14, Psirri, only stopped for a wine but impressed by the wine choice, it gets good reviews for brunch and also does other meals.

Bars

Brettos, 41 Kidathineion Street, is a great place, it is owned by the Brettos Spirits Company and is a beautifully lit bar with dozens of liqueurs to try, all cheap, they also serve wine and beer, it is open every day. On our most recent visit I was really impressed with the fabulous selection of Greek wines. Always a must to visit to escape the crowds in that area.

The area of Psirri, is five minutes walk from Monistariki and it is a popular area for bars & restaurants. There is a wide range of bars and it should be no problem to find one that suits.

Transistor, Protogenous 10, is a very cool, popular bar, just of Athinas Street going towards Psirri. There is a wide  selection of drinks and also food and being able to get an outside table at busy times can be hard.

Liosporos Jazz Cafe Bar, Miaouli 24, Psirri, is an old favourite from previous visits. It has a very local feel, there are always seats outside and it is a great place to chill with a drink and people watch at any time of day.Our home from home in Athens, Katarina and her staff are great as are the drinks and now offering more dishes as well as brunch.

Cinque Wine Bar, Agatharchou 15, Psirri, in all our stays in this area we had never visited Cinque before but we made up for time on our most recent visit. A fabulous selection of wines and also snacks, I can totally understand why it is so popular with visitors doing wine tastings. We only went a couple of times for a glass but loved the knowledge & service.

Mini Bar, Navarchou Apostoli 5, Psirri, we stopped here for a drink on a couple of occasions during our most recent visit and enjoyed the experience, another one to add to our list for the next visit. Another favourite in Athens, good drinks and a selection of dishes.

Ivis, Ivis 10, is very much a local bar & cafe which serves meze dishes and drinks. There is an English menu but specials are in Greek so ask the staff. It mainly cater for locals eating and drinking but when quiet stop by for a beer or wine the prices are incredibly cheap. Still very popular and really only now for meze with drinks.

Gazi is the new lively area with loads of terrace bars and places to eat, although it attracts quite a young crowd there is enough choice that you could find somewhere suitable. The metro station Keramikos has its main entrance just in the square that is the centre of all the activity. There are a number of modern art and cultural centres in the area.

Exarhia, nearest metro Omonia but walkable from Monistariki, is the new hip area, it has a bit of a radical reputation but these days seems quite safe, just stay on the well lit and busy streets. The main square Plateia Exarhion has loads of bars and cafes.

The Clumsies, Praxitelous 30, this bar is in the cool heart of Athens and is a fixture on the world;s top bar list. We popped in during the day and the bar has a great atmosphere and design and of course top notch drinks. It is one of a number of “trendy” bars in this area including Blue Bird, Kiki de Greece & Iprtou.

Drink

Ouzo is of course probably the best known Greek drink and while still seen being drunk with meze it has apparently lost popularity presumably as people change their drinking habits and more cocktail type bars open up.

Cocktails are popular both in the cities and on the islands, and many of the island waterfront bars are great for happy hour drinks.

Lager type beer such as Mythos & Alpha is very commonly drunk but there is increasingly bars focusing on small craft breweries with more ale type beers such as IPA’s. This visit I discovered other lager type beers that I preferred Mammos in particular also Eza & Fix.

Lastly wine, and in more informal eating places house wine by the litre is both cheap and drinkable, white, rose and red are usually available. If you are going to try more upmarket wine then it is worth doing some homework before you go to learn about grape types. Greek wines are gaining more and more admirers so check out some of the wine bars that have opened in recent years.

 

Must visits are the obvious sites of the Acropolis and Ancient Agora, try and go early as they get very crowded. The new Acropolis Museum looks fantastic and there is a lovely new pedestrian walk round the Acropolis hill and down to Monistariki with some lovely cafes to sit outside about three quarters of the way down.

Go up Lykavittos Hill by funicular for a fabulous view of the city.

The Flea market on a Sunday at Monistariki is worth a visit as are the Central Markets on Athinas Street.